Made in Italy, responsibly
Gilas starts from a simple premise: work with what already exists, and make it last.
In conversation with Chiara.
THE MATERIAL
When you started imagining Gilas, how important was it to work with existing materials?
It was my fundamental requirement. I couldn’t launch a brand in 2026 any other way. Fashion generates huge amounts of excess material every year, so I chose deadstock: new, high-quality skins left unsold in warehouses. Never from new orders, and since batches are limited, every piece is nearly one of a kind.
Why shearling?
Shearling is the material of my roots: Cortina, our family home, the winters of my childhood. It is also a responsible choice, a by-product of the food industry that would otherwise be discarded. And it never repeats itself: every skin is unique, and so is every piece.
Can you walk us through the journey of a shearling, from raw material to finished piece?
It starts as a by-product of the food chain. The skin is tanned with the wool still attached, then dyed and finished in nappa or suede. Part of these skins remains unsold in warehouses: this is where Gilas comes in. We select them and entrust the making to the artisans of an established Tuscan workshop.
Where do your materials come from, and how do you choose them?
From some of the finest tanneries in Spain, Turkey and Italy. I choose based on the piece I want to make, then I trust my instinct: when a material is truly beautiful, I can’t help but choose it.
How does working with deadstock influence the creative process? Do you ever design a piece starting from what you find?
Absolutely. Every material is different, so I start from what is available and bring out its best. When that isn’t possible, it’s about finding the balance between the piece I have in mind and the material I have in hand.
MADE IN ITALY
Who makes Gilas pieces, and how do you choose the people you work with?
Production is entirely Italian, entrusted to artisanal workshops in Tuscany. I chose them for their expertise, their care in leatherworking and their commitment to ethical and social standards. My producer of shearling pieces has many years of experience with this material and makes wonderful works. It is a family business now led by its third generation, run by a young woman like me, and she is extraordinary. They support me enormously, and their way of working is truly ahead of the sector.
How is a Gilas piece made?
Each piece follows a 100% artisanal process. Every skin is selected individually, for its quality, colour and wool. It is then cut following the direction of the wool and the natural characteristics of the skin, to reduce waste to a minimum. Then come sewing, assembly, edging and finishing. Many of these stages are carried out by hand, with close attention to every detail.
What about the materials used for accessories?
The shearling accessories, gloves and muffs in the first drop, also come from deadstock skins and are made by the same Tuscan artisans as the gilets.
The silk foulards are also made in Italy, entirely by hand. They are in 100% high-quality silk, again from deadstock and warehouse remnants.
How do you guarantee the quality of every piece?
With quality control at every stage of the process and a short, controlled supply chain. Every finished piece is checked twice: first before it leaves the workshop, then before packing and shipping it to the customer. Quality is what Gilas is built on, and I will never compromise on it: neither in the raw material, nor in the care that goes into making each piece.
QUALITY OVER QUANTITY
How do you avoid overproduction?
Every Gilas collection features a limited number of pieces, released in drops. This means no excess stock, and the ability to respond to real demand. In terms of volumes, by avoiding overproduction. In terms of design, by gathering feedback along the way and shaping what comes next accordingly. We produce what we sell, not more. I want to keep production volumes low and respect the natural production cycles of fashion.
What choices do you make to create pieces that can be worn and kept for a long time?
It all starts with the material and the making: a well-made piece lasts. Then there is design. A Gilas gilet has a clean, essential cut, elegant but with character, not tied to any trend. It is a versatile piece that keeps a look feeling considered without the need for constant new purchases. This is the approach to buying I want to encourage: choosing quality and durability over the trend of the moment.
How should a Gilas piece be cared for?
Store it in its cotton dust bag, never in plastic: skin and wool need to breathe. Keep it away from water and direct heat. If it gets damp, let it dry naturally in the air. For stains or cleaning, rely on a dry cleaner specialised in leather or furs.
Looking ahead, which aspects of sustainability would you like to work on?
There is always room to do better, and it is still early to say. For now, I work to limit waste every day: deadstock materials, periodic drops, limited volumes, and packaging designed to use as little plastic as possible. But sustainability, for me, also means something broader: keeping manual crafts alive and making sure these skills don't disappear. They need to be passed on, so that young Italians can still find the passion for creating, with their own hands, something beautiful and unique in the world.